Hung-over eating is a very peculiar art; each person seems to have a set of rigorous principles they follow after a heavy night, enacted with either tender precision or gay abandon. The traditionalists among us opt for the standard fry up, or bacon sandwich, whilst Health-loving types reach for an antioxidant smoothie or yoghurt and berries. I, on the other hand, am particularly partial to Frosties and cream. This is one of my favourite breakfasts from childhood, the milky sweetness and crunch are a winning combination, and above all I crave coldness and hydration to ease a hot fuzzy morning-after mouth. The last thing I want to eat when feeling like a pig shat in my head is a hot greasy slice of said pig lying limp and prostrate in a dry bap. I do, however, love bacon sandwiches on specific occasions, but never never on a hangover.
Breakfast dealt with, the problem of lunch and supper remains deeply vexing to a fragile post-party mind. At this point I crave fire, something spicy, hot with garlic, salty and carbohydrate-rich to soak up the booze. But it also has to be quick, on days like this the Pride and Predjudice boxset (or Brideshead Revisited, or The Forsyte Saga, or The Jewel in the Crown for that matter) have to be sat through. So this is it; the perfect hungover lunch or supper. Salty, umami-rich, punchy, and seasonal, this does all the right things. So settle into your favourite chair, the Observer on hand, with a steaming bowl of remedial pasta and enjoy the soothingly familiar pluckings of the Pride and Predjudice theme tune (BBC version, if you please).
Penne with Purple Sprouting and Anchovies.
100g penne per person (I usually opt for about 300 for myself on a hangover day) De Cecco is a good brand to buy
6 fillets of anchovies (reduce the number if you’re slightly less of a fan than i am)
1 dried chilli
3 cloves garlic
handful purple sprouting, rough ends trimmed
salt and pepper
Blanch the broccoli until cooked. Chop it up a bit. Reserve the water for the pasta. Slice the garlic and fry with the chilli in a generous glug of olive oil. Put the anchovies in the pan and cook gently stirring until they melt and make a sort of brown sauce. Throw in the broccoli and some of the pasta water. Meanwhile cook your pasta until al dente. Drain and toss in the pan with your green-brown sauce. Season with pepper (probably salty enough), and serve with grated parmesan on top.